The Family of Webber Photographers

These "Images of Interest", Wall Art Black & White Film Photography Prints and Hand Colored Greeting cards, are produced in my darkroom from family negatives dating back to the 1930's. 

Dad created unique "Nite Sites" images during his tenure at the 1939 New York World's Fair. Some of the images are in the permanent collection of the Queens Museum in New York City. The Museum building is the only remaining structure from the 1939 Art Deco event of the 20th century. 

It's my purpose as an artist to produce the finest images in keeping with the family tradition of Black & White Film Photography Prints and Hand Colored Greeting cards.

Enjoy your visit and thanks for stopping by!  

Link to my Website

https://www.webbersphotography.com/

Why Infrared Film?

My interest in this type of film dates back to the 1980's when I first discovered it. The best film available then was a Kodak product, HIE Infrared. Great film once you got the hang of it since it was quite sensitive to a number of factors like heat, humidity, loading and unloading in absolute darkness, and the brightness of the light falling on your subject. However, with practice you got what you wanted. I always took 2 or 3 exposures of the same image to be sure I had a great workable negative.

Then came along a Konica product, their 750 Infrared. Much easier to use than Kodak's film and would yield negatives as good. Sadly, both films have been discontinued. Now we have Ilford SFX 200 and Rollei Infrared films. Good products but not true infrared films. Kodak and Konica films would work very well with a 25 red filter whereas Ilford and Rollei require an extreme deep red R72 filter, so dark you can't see through. That's why I use the UUrig RFS adapter as explained in my previous blog post. Handy accessory for Infrared photography. When printing the new negatives I use a 3 1/2 contrast filter to increase the blacks vs whites in the final print.

I just like the deep blacks and twilight zone whites only available with Infrared film.

The print below, "Sugar Shack" from the Infrared Scenes of my website, was captured using my last roll of Konica 750. Other images were done with Ilford SFX 200; I'm starting to work with the Rollei Infrared to compare the finished print with my results from Ilford. 

Some of my customers really like the infrared look for their home decor because it does make an entirely different presentation as opposed to standard B&W. They claim the infrared is eye catching on their walls. 

Do any of you use infrared film in your photo portfolios?

It's been a while! 

Far too long indeed. However, during the absence, some great things have happened. More visits to my website, more interest in my Infrared images, 3 license agreements signed with a Hollywood production company and more exposure in retail outlets.

Enough about me. Do any of you use filters on your camera, film or digital? If you do, I found a great gadget that might interest you. It's a UUrig RFS (rapid filter system). Imagine a circular clam shell with a hinge between them. One half you screw into your lens and, in the other, you screw in your filter. When you wish to view through your lens, you tip the filter half parallel with the ground. When you choose to use your filter, simply tip the filter parallel with your lens. Works great for me when shooting Infrared film since the R72 filter is totally black to the human eye. 

No more finger prints on the filter, no more filters dropped on the ground which I've done more than once.

Super product available from B&H Photo NYC around $25.

The Beseler 23C Enlarger

Sorry for the above print size but blogger would not let me make it any larger. I tried to make it bigger but to no avail. Hopefully you'll be able to read it.

Perhaps one of the best known pieces of darkroom equipment is the Beseler 23C enlarger. Yes, there are others available but this particular model appears to be more of the well rounded units suitable for a number of negative sizes and types of projection.

THe 23C is heavy but also very steady and stable. There's no vibration which would yield poor negative printing. The elevation handle (10) is well geared so that once you crank it and then stop, it stops with no further travel. There's a measuring rule on the right side of the frame, where the handle is located, so that you can take note of the negative/cropping height for each print. Very convenient for me. The baseboard is large enough so that you can easily move an 11 x 14 easel into position as you seek the print crop you desire.

There are a number of negative sizes which the 23C can handle:

• 8 mm - 16mm and 110
• 35mm - 126
• 2 1/4 x 2 1/4
• 6 x 4.5
• 6 x 7
• 2 1/4 x 3 1/4

Each of these sizes requires a negative carrier specific for that size negative. They're well designed and easy to use. You simply put the negative into its carrier and then insert the carrier into the negative stage (6). Once in place you're free to rotate it any way you wish in order to get the crop/print you're looking for. 

Another great feature of this enlarger is that you don't have to change the condenser with each change of negative size. There is a condenser stage guide (13) built into the unit and all you need do is turn the condenser stage adjustment knob (12) to the correct marking on the guide that reflects your appropriate negative size. Simply raise or lower the condenser stage so that it rests at the correct point. This point is the one that provides complete light coverage of the negative area, with the proper flatness of field and the avoidance of "hot spots".

The 23C has a bracket which will hold contrast filters that swings under the lense so that you can make variations to your final print. I use Ilford MultiGrade IV RC paper and always start with a Beseler #3 filter. Multigrade IV is a warm tone paper so the #3 filter helps me achieve stronger blacks. For me, it's a good place to start on my way to a completed print.

Printing with the 23C has always been a pleasure. With my darkroom timer, I have 3 easy settings. The first is focus which I use to crop my neg and then get it into focus with a grain focuser. Next is the safelight setting which allows me to take my paper from the light safe and put it into my easel. Lastly, the print setting turns on the enlarger bulb and turns off the safelight. Then it's time to put that paper in the developer and watch the "magic", something that still fascinates me after all these years.

My 23C was purchased back in the late 1970's from a retailer in NYC. The package included the enlarger, the frame, the baseboard, 3 lenses, 3 lens boards, 3 negative carriers, and a box of contrast filters. The reason I remember so well is that the "package" cost me $333.00. Forty years have gone by and so have these prices.  

Obviously, I'm not qualified to comment on your darkroom budget but if you want quality equipment that will stand the test of time than the Beseler 23C deserves your consideration.

Mamiya 645 Medium Format Camera

Of all the film formats I've used over the years, I tend to enjoy the medium format 645 size the best. It offers me both portrait and landscape orientations as you would find in any 35mm SLR camera. The 645 negative is about 3 times larger than a 35mm negative which works well for me in my darkroom using a Beseler 23C enlarger. There are also many choices of film in the 120 format so I can pretty well photograph with whatever I like. Needless to say, all my film work is done in Black & White.

My current camera choice is a Mamiya 645 first introduced in 1975 and discontinued in 1987. Unlike later models, mine does not have removable film backs. That's ok since I'm not shooting weddings where the demand for film was constant. It's really not that much larger or heavier then some of the 35 mm work-horse cameras of today. With a handle grip attached to the body, it's as comfortable for me as is any other camera. Another benefit is that my camera repair pro says that there are still repair parts available, at least for now anyway.

Some of the features that I enjoy about my Mamiya 645 are:

• Large negative quality
• Compact design
• Bright viewfinder
• Flat film plane
• Available lenses
• Multiple exposure provision
• Mirror lock up switch
• Two shutter release buttons-conveniently placed
• Metered prism
• X sync connection for external Flash

When all is said and done, whatever camera you choose, film or digital, just go have fun and enjoy your type of photography!

Gossen Digisix Light Meter

In my search for a lighter and smaller light meter, I found the Gossen Digisix to be my answer. It's 2 1/5" top to bottom and 2" left to right. Easily fits into a shirt pocket. Equipped with a neck strap, it can be worn all day with no fatigue whatsoever. The Digisix uses a CR-2032 battery which is readily and the unit only weighs 40g including the battery.

The Gossen Digisix is an ambient light meter set up to take both incident and reflected light readings. The diffuser is conveniently mounted at the top of the unit making it easy to move as needed for either of the two types of light readings.

There are 6 functions built into the Digisix. They are:

1. Film Speed
2. Exposure Reading
3. Timer
4. Watch
5. Alarm Clock
6. Temperature

Admittedly, I only use the first two functions but the others are nice to have nonetheless. Once I set my ISO value, taking a reading is easy and quite expansive. The exposure dial that you rotate to match the meter's EV reading then shows you every possible F stop/shutter speed combination for that EV reading. I like that since I may make a judgement call as to under/over exposure. May also want to think about depth of field. A single glance at the Digisix makes all the variables obvious to me. No doubt other meters do the same but I like the compact size and accuracy of this particular meter. It's just light weight, handy, and quick.

The following are some of the Gossen Digisix specs:

• Shutter Speeds - 1/2000 sec to 4 min
• Apertures (F stops) - 1 to 32
• Film Speeds - ISO 6 to 3200 - 1/3 incriments

Retail price for the Gossen Digisix is around $175.

Any comments, questions, or suggestions please post as you wish.  

Respectfully,
Hank